We had seen the Black Canyon of the Gunnison and the Great White Throne of Zion, but nothing in our travels had prepared me for the Grand Canyon. We wandered from overlook to overlook along the South Rim drive. I snapped a photo here, a photo there. The photographs are lost, and they would not do the place justice. You have probably seen many photos. Surely I could choose from thousands at Panoramio. Nothing can match being there, on a wintry afternoon, with snow banked in the shade of the junipers, and no tourists elbowing for the best viewpoints.
We checked into a hotel with Keith K, Tim’s friend from Los Angeles, who had flown up to join us on the pending adventure. Our room was pleasant, but there were only two beds, not king-size. I rolled out a sleeping bag on the floor. A chronic insomniac, I always had trouble sleeping the night before an airplane flight, and the prospect of a vertiginous mule-ride was even scarier. When I booked the trip, it seemed a fine idea. Not any more.
Wakeful all night, I talked myself into staying behind. With daylight, I grumbled and fretted; but I went to the corral, wearily admired the handsome drover in charge of our party, and boarded my lurching, snorting, farting mount. There were about a dozen riders, including a few novices like me. Tim and Keith had both ridden a few times as Boy Scouts. The drover told us how to use our legs as well as our reins to control our mules. We also carried switches, which proved in due time to be quite useless.
Tim and I wore Stetsons we had bought in Wyoming a few years before; but the lead drover cocked his battered hat with a lot more authority. A second cowboy would follow at the rear of our file. Clop, clop went the horseshoes on the stony trail as we started down the first grade. You’ve probably heard Ferde Grofe’s Grand Canyon Suite. It’s a very accurate musical description of the sound and rhythm.
I can’t recall my mule’s name, but I decided we were not friends when he paused at the first real cliff and bent deeply to bite some weed off the outside edge. The drover had warned us about such behavior. It seemed sheer malevolence. I soon discovered our mules had another nasty habit — communal pissing. If one animal cut loose, each successor would piss on the same spot. By the time our whole band had irrigated the trail, a distinct hazard awaited any hikers who might stride unwarily after us.
Sporadic sunshine took the chill from the air as we descended. There was little wind, but the clouds were moving fast, and the weather looked chancy. For once I wasn’t thinking about the weather, or even about the incredible views, changing with every switchback. I thought of nothing but my mount, and how very far we had to go.
“This is Skeleton Point,” the drover called back. “The trail is slippery here, especially when it’s wet. If you look over the side, you can actually see bones at the bottom of the cliff. Pack trains are roped together when they’re hauling supplies.”
I was still picturing horrific accidents when my mule made another grab at foliage over the verge. I leaned way back in the saddle. I did not want to see wreckage below, or add another set of bones. There was a stir among the riders behind me, and giggling from a couple of pubescent horse-girls, who were perfectly at ease in their stirrups. The lead drover turned.
“He’s a cranky one. Move him on.”
Bright Angel Plateau was a relief. The trail gentled and ran through a sunny meadow. The place smelled of herbs. Throughout the canyon complex there were benches at this elevation. It was a geologic non-conformity: the end of the sedimentary layers. Below were pre-Cambrian metamophics, much harder, forming the Grand Canyon’s inner complex of dark gorges.
We had gone a short way down the Marble Canyon when our drover stopped and dismounted. He was tightening the cinches that held his brute’s saddle when it suddenly lashed out. It kicked him sprawling, almost over the cliff. His jeans were ripped and bloody on his upper leg, where the nailed shoe had struck him. He dusted himself off and politely apologized for his mount — a youngster, just learning the trail, and not trusty at all. I could see he was hurting, but he was a tough SOB, and getting kicked was part of a cowboy’s work. A little higher, though, and he would have been a gelding.
We filed along a stretch of trail blasted slantwise down a precipice of the inner gorge. The bedrock was wonderfully veined, but I had no chance to examine it. At the bottom of the steep was a little sward between great buttresses. The trail led into a dark opening on the far side. Our drover halted and told us to gather around while he explained what was coming next. Beyond the tunnel was a suspension bridge, just wide enough for mules to pass. It had been under repair recently, and the planking had changed.
“Mules don’t like changes,” the drover warned us. “Your mule might take one look at the bridge and stop dead. Keep your switches ready, and if your mule balks, give it a good whack.”
I was fourth or fifth in the line. The tunnel was dark, wet, and spooky. In the blinding light ahead I saw that the bridge jutted straight out of the tunnel mouth. My mule hesitated skittishly at the brink. I swatted his rump, and he stepped onto the planks. There was a railing on either side, but it gave me no sense of security, since it was only about three feet tall. I was sitting much higher, and the bridge was very narrow. Two mules could not have passed abreast A hundred feet below, the Colorado swirled and surged.
In the middle of the bridge, my mule went rigid. The animals ahead moved forward and reached the far side. No amount of whacking could make mine follow them. “He’s afraid to go. There’s nothing in front of him now,” called the drover at the rear.
I was terrified that the mule would buck me right out of the saddle if I hit it any more. There was only one alternative: dismount and lead on foot. At the same time I remembered what had happened to the lead drover when he irritated his beast. I would have to move so deftly that I would be in front of the mule before it even realized what was happening.
Somehow I got off safely. Suddenly tractable, the mule suffered me to lead it. In a few moments we were all across, and I remounted. The trail slanted down onto gentle ground. Our mules plodded steadily. They knew the corrals were near. The two drovers sat off to the side.
“It’s a good thing we had an experienced rider on that one,” the lead drover said to his companion as I passed.
I hope he wasn’t joking, because I took him seriously, and I glowed all evening. We rode another mile along the vale of Bright Angel Creek, which chortled among stones on its way to join the Colorado. This was just a local watershed of the North Rim, which loomed through the bare cottonwood trees, more than a mile above us. It was almost warm at this elevation, and the spring grass was greening. Soon we were eating a huge supper at a trestle table in Bright Angel Camp. I actually slept in a bed that night.
A thunderstorm broke my fitful doze. I lay awake, thinking what such weather might do to the trail, and hurting in places that had never been sore before. The day broke cloudy, and the lowest clouds were moving fast, just above the South Rim, which was freshly frosted with snow. It was noticeably cooler even at the canyon floor. After breakfast we donned sweaters, jackets, and gloves for the long climb. I have never been so cold in my life, stuck atop the laboring mule in a forty-mile-per-hour wind, with snow flurries blowing past as we neared the top. I could barely walk at the end of the ride. We were all deeply hypothermic, and it took a lot of hot soup to restore us. I swore never to ride a mule again — and I didn’t. We took horses after that.
On March 30 we drove through verdant deserts. It was rainy season. All the strange vegetation was thick with foliage and blossoms. Descending further, we entered the Sonoran ecosystem, which I had not seen before. Here saguaro cactus was the standout species. Prickly pear and barrel cactus studded the desert pediment. In alluvial soils, skeletal ocotillo bushes were tipped with flame-red flowers. When we stopped, I heard birdsongs that were completely new to me. But I would not walk unbooted into the thorny, snake-infested land.
We rolled on into LA, ate at Keith’s favorite restaurant, a place called El Chavo, and turned in early. For the next week we savored the many pleasures of Los Angeles. We toured the Huntington Gardens and Museum twice. We revisited the Getty on a day of rain and startling sunshine. We beached at Venice and Malibu. I chased boys in Griffith Park. We dined in Chinese, Mexican, Siamese, Italian, and Greek restraurants – the latter down the coast in San Pedro, where we celebrated Keith K.’s birthday. The shy Scandinavian blushed fetchingly when a Greek waiter kissed him.
After our riotous stay in LA, we spent a quieter and more expensive pair of nights in La Jolla. A surfer at Griffith Park had told me about a particular beach north of town, near Camp Pendleton. Warm Sant’ana weather afforded a perfect opportunity for enjoying the shore, though Tim quickly became bored with it. As for me — La Jolla seemed paradisical, quieter than LA, and more beautiful, gay but more discreet. I would have bought a place there in an instant. But Tim’s livelihood was in Fargo, and he dreamed of buying farmland, not vacation homes. My inclination was more practical by far, had we only known.
From San Diego we drove east. I wangled a stop at Saguaro National Monument. Then we rolled on to New Mexico. Tim’s valley was calling him. It was spring. Soon the wheat would be going in. The next day we drove 750 miles, from tiny Vaughn, New Mexico to York, Nebraska. The day after, chilly and gray, we reached Fargo, where piles of dirty snow were still melting in our front yard. La Jolla might as well have circled another star.
This will be my last travel recollection for awhile. On Wednesday I begin a real trip, for the first time in three years. I fly to Providence, RI, meet Tim there, and tour New England for eight days, visiting literary friends. On July 17, Tim and I board Arabella for a five-day cruise. I will road-blog when possible, and I hope not to miss any days altogether, but obviously my posts will be fewer. When I resume these recollections, we’ll be off to the Beartooth Range, then Canada, Alaska, Central America, so many places. Will I have the time to visit them all again?